GB Youth Team Member and International Competition Climber
Thank you to Eugenie for letting us interview her during the Battle of Britain 2018 at the Depot in Manchester on 20th October.
Who you are and what do you do?
I’m Eugenie. I started climbing when I was about 7 years old at The Castle in London. I joined the British team when I was 11 and I competed internationally for a couple of years. I’m a rock climber (laughs).
What was your first climbing experience?
I did a lot of sports when I was younger. My mum was like let’s get her into another sport but she’s got too much energy and annoying (laughs). So she was like “why don’t we try rock climbing”. Meant to be a family sport but turns out my Mum’s scared of height. Me and my Dad loved it so I did that for a couple of years and then I got scouted.
How did you know that climbing was your thing?
That’s a hard one. I kind of just took to it more than anything else. It was a different feeling to other sports that I did. I would drop everything to do it, I guess I’d always be up for trying it. I think I just tortured myself for it for training (laughs) I think if you’re willing to put that much pain into to it, you know it’s something you’ve got to do.
Where is your favourite outdoor climb?
Rocklands [South Africa]. Rocklands is a very big area, there a lot of amazing boulders there. I can’t pick a certain place. The place is just amazing.
What has been your proudest climbing moment?
When I was 15 I went to my first World Championships in bouldering and I made the semi-finals. I was very happy about that. It was the first junior bouldering world championships. I was alongside Ashima [Shiraishi] and Brooke [Raboutou]. That’s, in itself, pretty big.
What are your ambitions?
I’d like to get onto the senior team. Do some competing there. I am more of an indoor climber than an outdoor climber so most of my ambitions are to do with competitions.
Lead, Speed or Boulder and Why?
Boulder. I’m a bit like my Mum, I don’t really like heights. I still do lead, I just don’t like it. Speed I do really enjoy training for but there aren’t many speed walls in the UK, like one in Scotland. I do like it, I like it more than lead.
What are your most liked and hated healthy foods?
There are these quinoa chips that are really good. If I eat well, I like the chilli and lime flavour. They have 7g of protein per bag. My most hated is literally any protein bar, they’re disgusting, taste like sand (laughs).
If not climbing, what sport would you be doing?
That’s a hard one. Gymnastics or dance. I’m a bit torn but I really like them. I used to do them, so one of those.
Give us an inspiring quote (either yours or someone else’s).
Haha, so I have this top my dad got me; it says
“Defeat is a state of mind; no one is defeated until defeat has been accepted as a reality”
… I think those are the words.
For more information about Eugenie check out her Instagram feed